2017 Hyundai Elantra gt
The Verdict
The 2017 Hyundai Elantra gt has 731 owner complaints filed with NHTSA. The most reported issues are body (298 complaints) and engine (288 complaints). With a Klunk Score of 12/100, it earns a "Total Klunk" rating. If you're shopping for a Hyundai Elantra gt, consider the 2018 model year which has 93% fewer complaints.
Safe Bet
The 2018 has 93% fewer complaints
View the 2018 Hyundai Elantra gt dashboard →
Klunk Score: Total Klunk
Among the most complained-about vehicle years on record. Strongly consider alternatives.
How is this calculated?
The Klunk Score ranks this vehicle year against all others in our database based on total owner complaints filed with NHTSA. 100 = fewest complaints (top tier), 0 = most complained-about. Scores above 60 are better than average; below 40 means more problems than most.
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Under the Hood
Each number is a complaint. Darker = bigger problem.
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Worst Problems
Complaints
My vehicle was brought to an authorized Hyundai dealership In November 2025 to complete safety recall campaign KSDS (Campaign 966). Soon after picking up the vehicle after the dealer flashed the ECU, the vehicle went into a permanent, dangerous "limp mode" that severely limits the engine's RPMs, making it impossible to accelerate to highway speeds. The vehicle's computer displays zero OBD-II diagnostic trouble codes (no P1326 or standard fault codes). The dealership is refusing to address this issue, falsely claiming a plugged catalytic converter, despite the vehicle having passed a strict California Smog Check with perfect emissions and zero catalyst codes, just a few weeks before the update was performed, and ran perfectly normal. This recall software update has rendered my vehicle extremely unsafe to drive on public roads, and the manufacturer's authorized repair facility is refusing to remedy the electronic damage caused by the recall installation. I am trapped driving a disabled vehicle in a permanent, dangerous software loop.
I am writing to formally log a critical safety and product reliability complaint regarding my Hyundai Elantra GT. The vehicle has suffered catastrophic engine failure characterized by severe rod knock. This failure occurred without any prior warning from the vehicle’s onboard diagnostic systems, exposing an engineering and sensor flaw that creates an immediate safety hazard.The vehicle was operating normally when it suddenly developed a distinct, heavy metallic knocking sound from the engine block, indicative of failed connecting rod bearings. Upon immediate inspection, the issue was linked to critical oil starvation or pressure drops.Crucially, the vehicle’s warning systems failed entirely to alert me to an issue:No Low Oil Pressure Warning: The dashboard oil pressure light never illuminated to warn of low pressure or critical oil level depletion.No Check Engine Light (CEL): The engine sensors failed to detect underlying mechanical distress, oil degradation, or early-stage misfires before the catastrophic failure occurred.Complete System Silence: The vehicle gave absolutely no visual or audible alerts on the instrument cluster, depriving me of the chance to pull over safely and shut off the engine to prevent total destruction.This sensor failure is an unacceptable safety risk. Total engine seizure at highway speeds can cause a sudden loss of motive power, power steering, and braking assist, endangering my life and the lives of others on the road. The failure of Hyundai’s diagnostic sensors to communicate active oil or mechanical breakdown directly directly caused this total engine loss.I request that Hyundai review this case immediately, investigate the failure of the warning systems, and provide financial remediation for the required engine replacement.I look forward to your prompt response regarding the next steps for a corporate review.
After a Hyundai dealership installed the Knock Sensor Detection System (KSDS) update to prevent engine bearing failure and potential fires in certain Theta II, Nu, and Gamma engines, my Elantra GT is stuck in limp mode and will no longer accelerate. Since it takes my car a very long time to reach safe driving speeds, I took the car back to the dealership and they conveniently blamed the catalytic converter. I went for a ride with a California BAR associate, and he agreed that the update was causing my engine to go into limp mode, and it wasn't a symptom of a plugged CAT, but he was unable or unwilling to help me. Hyundai acknowledged that the engine does qualify for the Theta II extended warranty but will not explore that possibility until I have them replace the cat for $3,300, which we both know isn't going to solve anything. I have contacted Hyundai Corporate Customer Relations, and even the BBB, who refuses to qualify my car for their Engine Replacement class action lawsuit because the engine hasn't seized up yet, which will never happen since the update is preventing it. Even lemon law lawyers refuse to assist me because the car is too old. Since this is the only car I have, I am a nervous reck whenever I have to use it. If I press the accelerator pedal just a bit too much, the engine cuts out.
Paint is peeling on hood and roof. Hyundai has recalled some vehicles with white paint but there are other colors affected. My car color is symphony silver.
A car pulled out in front of me. I hit my brakes and now the calipers are locked. When the incident happened the brakes on the left side of the car locked up. I have no warning lights and the caliper is still locked. I have been to a couple mechanics and no one understands. If you unplug the brake line from the ABS unit the calipers release. Front calipers, brakes, and brake lines have been replaced
Hi, Over the course of the 8 years I have owned this vehicle. The brake lights have needed to be replaced multiple times on multiple areas. This is a common issue that there’s entirely Facebook and Reddit pages dedicated to because of the known faulty harness issues. It is an incredibly expensive repair and these parts should be recalled as they are a known issue. My service guys know it. Every Hyundai owner knows it. And even random Facebook/redditors know it.
unknown, stalls randomly after driving for about 10 minutes
The vehicle has experienced ongoing powertrain and electrical malfunctions over several months. The most common symptoms include being stuck in 4th gear (limp mode), complete loss of RPM and speedometer readings, and illumination of the check engine and ESC lights. Most recently, while traveling at approximately 10 mph, the vehicle experienced a sudden loss of both acceleration and braking. The brake pedal became stiff and unresponsive, and the car had to coast to a stop without driver control. This posed a serious safety risk to myself and nearby traffic. These issues have persisted across multiple service visits to Ricart Hyundai in Groveport, Ohio. That dealership has replaced the crankshaft position sensor three times, the powertrain control module (PCM), and the battery, but the underlying problems remain unresolved. A technician at the dealership was able to reproduce the stalling event during a test drive. Despite that, the dealership has refused to proceed with further diagnostics unless I pay for an oil change, even though previous inspections by their own staff found no visible leaks and confirmed the oil level was sufficient at the time. They have also revoked complimentary access to a loaner vehicle despite the unresolved and unsafe condition of the car. The vehicle remains available for inspection. The problem has been confirmed by a dealership, has occurred repeatedly, and continues to pose a safety concern. Warning lights and gauge failures typically appear when the issue occurs.
Odometer Fraud. The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for servicing, the contact was informed that there was a mileage discrepancy. Additionally, the contact was informed that the check engine warning light had been tampered with and tape had been applied over the check engine warning light prior to the purchase. The vehicle was a dealer sale. At the time of purchase, it was reported that the mileage was 85,000, and upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic shop, it was discovered that the mileage on the Carfax report was 215,000 on September 2024.
Door lock actuator on rear driver's side door not working. Door stuck closed, even though power to lock is present and locking / unlocking mechanism works. Door will not open from inside or outside.
My auto has a problem with the brake light on the drivers side not working at some times. The issue seems to happen almost every 6 months or so. The first time it stopped working, I took my auto to the dealership where i purchased it from costing me about $65.00, the second time 6 months later the brake light went out again. The bulb was replaced by the dealership at no charge, I was told that the bulb was put in wrong. The brake light is now out again. I noticed that it may come on but when I press the brake pedal and release the emergency brake, it goes out and stays out until I shut the auto off for a long period of time. Often it will be on when I'm driving and then it goes out.
I was told by the mechanic about the following. My car has shown engine oil burning issue, and it made the timing chain placing in the faulty function frequently. I changed the timing chain last year and was advised that I would need to check engine oil level because of engine oil burning issue. I was advised to check it at every 2500 miles. Recently my car showed check engine light on again, so I visited the repair shop and found out that the engine oil was totally gone before 2000 miles. The synthetic engine oil change should be at every 5000 miles. The rapid engine oil consumption made my car getting check engine sign on and I was told that it eventually would stop my car. And I was told that it is very hard to fix it because it is due to faulty engine issue.
My vehicle was towed to manly Hyundai in Santa Rosa Ca June 18,2025. The vehicle when driving steered all over the lane then locked up on me almost causing a crash. The dealership says it’s the electrical column assembly. My vehicle is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra but don’t see any recall on it and I am being charged $3400.00. The red steering wheel light went on . I’m looking for a recall on this vehicle seems many others have had the same issue. I do not have any receipts yet since it was towed and parts are being ordered and work will start this week. As soon as I have paperwork I can forward it to you. Thanks for your help in advance. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle lost automotive power and then lost power after driving a short distance. No warning light was illuminated. In addition, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine. The vehicle was taken to a local independent mechanic; however, the failure was not replicated. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously taken to the same independent mechanic, and the spark plugs were replaced. The local dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 150,000.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the brake pedal felt stiff while depressed. Additionally, the vehicle failed to slow down as intended. No warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that prior to the failure, the brake pads and rotors were replaced. The local dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired due to the cost. Upon further investigation, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V063000 (Service Brake, Hydraulic); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 63,000.
Timing chain looseness, Sudden loss of engine power/motive power. Vehicle was sold, unknown if available for inspection. Engine failure on and in the middle of the interstate/highway, and this caused a major crash risk, and safety hazard. This make and model of vehicle has multiple reports of similar incidents. The repairs would’ve cost over 3 times the value of the car. As stated by the vehicle manufacturer, the entire engine would need to be replaced, with a factory built engine in order to comply with NHTSA and safety regulations. I’m no longer in possession of the vehicle. It was sold. While the vehicle was operating, and drivable there would be a chime and a flashing check engine light/indicator on occasion. Although no codes were present at maintenance center, therefore unable to identify the exact cause.
passenger front door wont open as of2-15-25 and rear door won't open as of 3-14-2024
Car had check engine come on with No significant symptom. Mechanic said this code leads them to either timing chain, phasers, or piston valve all located in the engine. The car does not have much time at this point. It’s very costly after just having changed all the oil gaskets from a leaky engine. Mechanic said it will suddenly get bad if left unpaired and could be dangerous for me while driving.
Coil 1 & 4 misfire. Won’t accelerate well & engine light blinks. Car will stall then die when engine light blinks too much in 1 minute.
I was currently in an accident and my airbags did not deploy. My safety was at risk because I am pregnant. The vehicle was inspected by insurance representatives or body shop. No warning or other symptoms of problems prior to failure
731 total